The Archaeological Museum in Rethymno Town, Crete: The Archaeological Museum of Rethymnon was founded in 1887 by the Society of Friends of Education. Since 1991, the museum is housed in the Pentagon bastion opposite the main entrance of Fortezza, while the gift shop of the museum is housed in Lotzia. The museum hosts findings from various ancient sites, caves, and excavations all over the prefecture of Rethymnon Crete. These findings date from the Late Neolithic and Proto-Minoan times till the late Roman period. In particular, the exhibits include vessels, tools, figurines, collections of coins, weapons, helmets, ceramics, jewelry, marble statues, stele from ancient monuments, columns from temples, pieces of daily use and many other items connected with life in the ancient times. The exhibits are placed in chronological order and by excavation site.

The Orthodox Church played an important role in liberating Greece from Turkish occupation. Set amid the rural foothills of Psiloritis (Mount Idi), 23 kilometers southeast of Réthymnon, this fortress-like 16th-century monastery is surrounded by high stone walls. Today, it’s a wonderfully peaceful place, with a delightful Baroque church and a rose garden, but it has not always been so. In 1866, the monastery became the central meeting place for Cretan revolutionaries, with the Abbot as chairman. During an uprising against the Turks, some 900 locals (mainly women and children), who had taken refuge here, chose to blow themselves up rather than surrender. Outside the monastery, their skulls are displayed in glass cabinets, as a haunting monument to their bravery.

By the 16th century, the Ottoman Turks were fast advancing into Europe. Between 1573 and 1580, the Venetians built this enormous fortress, completed with sturdy bastions, to protect the island against Turkish invasion and also as a place where locals could take shelter, should the Turks take the town. Perched atop Paleokastro hill, immediately west of the old harbor, it affords marvelous views over Réthymnon’s old town and out to sea. On the highest point, note the mosque, originally a church, but converted into an Islamic place of worship by the Turks when they eventually conquered the town in 1646. There’s also a small open-air theater, which hosts concerts in summer.

A joy to explore on foot, the cobbled streets of Réthymnon’s car-free old town take you back through the centuries. Laid out on a grid system, the mix of architectural styles reflects the town’s history, so you’ll see attractions such as the 16th-century Venetian loggia, the 17th century Rimondi Fountain with water gushing from the mouths of three stone lions, a towering Ottoman minaret from 1890, a smattering of contemporary graffiti, and modern day cafés and restaurants full of students. Sometimes styles are combined – lovely pastel-colored Venetian-era town houses have wooden balconies added by the Turks. Today, the most touristy area is the old harbor, rimmed with pricey seafood restaurants, which is especially enchanting in the evening.

On Crete’s isolated south coast, built into a remote hillside overlooking the Libyan Sea, Preveli Monastery lies 36 kilometers south of Réthymnon and is only accessible via a winding road through the mountains. Dating from the 17th-century, the monastery features a church and a small museum displaying icons and ecclesiastical paraphernalia. Outside stands a Memorial for Peace and Resistance, erected in 2002. During the Battle of Crete, in 1941, the monks at Preveli gave supplies and shelter to the Allies. The monument is composed of a large headstone, with an unusual statue of a priest (holding a machine gun) and a soldier (one of the Allies) standing to each side. From here you have absolutely stunning views down onto the sea.

While the coast is very hot and crowded during summer, a short drive into the mountains brings you to peaceful rural villages where time has stopped. Lying 27 kilometers southwest of Réthymnon, Argyroupoli is especially cool and fresh due to countless small waterfalls rising from underground springs. Nestled amid lush greenery and trees, Argyroupoli has a rich history dating back to Roman times – it was also much loved by the Venetians, and later became the center of Cretan resistance against the Turks. Today, it is particularly known for its excellent tavernas specialising in roast lamb, with open air dining on stone terraces under the trees and close to the waterfalls.